Glove recommendations sought for drysuit diving

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

"Rob" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:f10d108c24fd4befa883cc0c36d12fab@news.teranew s.com...
> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily
in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.
> Setups I am considering:
> -"Semi-dry" neoprene gloves.. They have what I think is a neoprene or
rubber
> coating on the inside of the wrist bands, to supposedly seal against the
> suit's wrist seals (probably ok for the warmer months, but I have my
doubts
> about them for extended or multiple dives when the water temps get into
the
> 40's

Don't bother.

> -"Nordic Blue" - Rubber gloves (sort of like very heavy duty grippy
kitchen
> gloves with synthetic woven liners) They come two ways: 1- with latex
wrist
> seals just like those on the drysuit-- these would probably seal very well
> against the suit's wrist seals, and 2- with sets of locking rings.
> -I read somewhere that one can purchase rings, install on the drysuit
> wrists, and then use actual heavy-duty kitchen gloves with the insulating
> glove of one's choice inside... One then stretches the gauntlet of the
glove
> over the ring on the drysuit arm to form the seal. Advantage.. the gloves
> themselves are relatively inexpensive, and no big deal to replace if they
> get punctured or cut.
>

I do it this way. I use the Diving Concepts ring system. The suit part
takes about 5 minutes to install on the wrist seals, and isn't permanent.
Takes about 3 minutes to remove them. They're held on by one "internal" and
one "external" O-ring. This system leaves the wrist seal intact unless you
cut it off. Leaving the wrist seal intact allows you to keep the suit dry
in the event of a glove failure, and it allows you to remove the rings when
you don't need or want the drygloves (which is exactly what I do sometimes).

The same goes for the glove ring also. It's held on by an internal O-ring.
You *can* use any sort of stretchy waterproof glove (ie kitchen gloves), but
the problem is finding them in a size that allows you to comfortably wear an
insulating glove underneath. Normally the sizes that have fat enough
fingers for thick glove liners also have very long fingers and kinda suck.
You can buy the heavy duty blue gloves from www.Seamar.com - they're made by
Atlas. Don't spend the extra cash on the "Nordic Blue" branded gloves -
they're identical. You can buy them with the insulation "built in" to the
glove, or with the glove and insulation separate. The ones with the glove
and insulation separate are the model 495 and run about $16 a pair and the
insulated ones are the 490 and run less than $15. The blue gloves are very,
very tough. The ones without the built in insulation are also easier to
install on the ring since they stretch better.

You're going to need a way for air to move in and out of the gloves. I wear
the insulated glove under the wrist seal (as in http://tinyurl.com/2zd7q),
but if you're using a glove with built-in insulation you can put some
surgican tubing under the seal, use a lightweight glove liner under the
seal, or the "sock" method you'll find at
http://www.dir-diver.com/en/equipment/drygloves.html

The thing I don't like about the gloves with the built in latex seals are:
1) cost to replace. If the glove or seal fails, you have to replace the
whole thing, which is a lot more expensive than just a glove from Seamar
($16 vs $64)
2) durability. Latex seals aren't known for being the longest lasting or
most durable thing on the planet, and I like not having to worry about
ripping a glove seal when I pop them on.
3) donning ease. Getting on another pair of latex seals is just one more
headache you have to deal with when you can just pop the rings on

There is a lot to be said for the gloves with the latex seals (lower wrist
profile, less likely to come off), but the above three outweigh those for
the diving I do.

All said, the Diving Concepts ring system seems to be one of the more
popular ones, and, IMO, for good reason. They work well and the gloves are
cheap. The rings are not a permanent installation and are relatively easy
to remove.

Rob wrote:

> I very recently purchased a drysuit (trilam shell) and I'm seeking
> recommendations as to what sort of gloves would be best. I dive primarily in
> the NE, and will be doing cool and cold water diving for the most part.

99.9% of my diving is in the NY/NJ/LI area. Most of us use Harvey's 5mm
Titianum gloves. Tough, especially on the wrecks. I have seen friends
come up with soaked "dry gloves". One buddy has the Diving Concepts with
the interlocking ring. It works for him well. But then, he stays off the
wrecks, does not artifact or lobster hunting. The ring will not allow
you to go after a lobster in a piece of wreckage.