Removing rust from knives

Tazz wrote

> Will it damage my dive knives to soak them in sodium hydrosulfite (iron
> out) and water to remove rust?

I doubt it, but I don't know for sure. Personally, I'd look for a product
specifically designed to remove rust from metal products. There are several
available at marine stores. Unfortunately, I don't have the brand name of
the one I like the best. All I can tell you is that it comes in a plastic
bottle about 8 inches high and 3 inches in diameter and looks kind of like
slightly orangish brown peanut butter. I'll try to remember to look when
I'm next at my boat.

> My good knife only has a tiny spot on it, but my cheap knife has lots of
> tiny to medium sized spots. I guess you get what you pay for.

Actually, getting what you pay for may not be the issue when it comes to
rust. Steel knives that don't rust, often don't hold an edge well either.
Those that do rust often work better. If you like the knife otherwise,
here's a suggestion for having your cake and eating it too.

CRC, WD40 and Marvel Mystery Oil, all leave a film behind. I'm sure similar
products do too, but these three are the ones I've used most often. Clean
and sharpen your knife, wipe it off, and then spray or wipe a coating of
one of the three products mentioned on all metal parts. Be generous. Don't
wipe it off, let it dry on the knife. The coating will keep rust from
forming for an extended period, months if not years. So far, I've not had a
problem with any of my knives until I use them. Cutting pretty much
anything removes the film and lets surface rust form again. While it does
not seem to last as long, silicon grease, the kind we all used to use for
o-rings, etc. before we started breathing high 02 content gas, will do the
job in a pinch. I keep my old silicon grease in my save a dive kit for just
that purpose.

Marvel Mystery Oil, by the way, does the same thing for guns you don't plan
on using for an extended period.

Lee

Tazz wrote

> Will it damage my dive knives to soak them in sodium hydrosulfite (iron
> out) and water to remove rust?

I doubt it, but I don't know for sure. Personally, I'd look for a product
specifically designed to remove rust from metal products. There are several
available at marine stores. Unfortunately, I don't have the brand name of
the one I like the best. All I can tell you is that it comes in a plastic
bottle about 8 inches high and 3 inches in diameter and looks kind of like
slightly orangish brown peanut butter. I'll try to remember to look when
I'm next at my boat.

> My good knife only has a tiny spot on it, but my cheap knife has lots of
> tiny to medium sized spots. I guess you get what you pay for.

Actually, getting what you pay for may not be the issue when it comes to
rust. Steel knives that don't rust, often don't hold an edge well either.
Those that do rust often work better. If you like the knife otherwise,
here's a suggestion for having your cake and eating it too.

CRC, WD40 and Marvel Mystery Oil, all leave a film behind. I'm sure similar
products do too, but these three are the ones I've used most often. Clean
and sharpen your knife, wipe it off, and then spray or wipe a coating of
one of the three products mentioned on all metal parts. Be generous. Don't
wipe it off, let it dry on the knife. The coating will keep rust from
forming for an extended period, months if not years. So far, I've not had a
problem with any of my knives until I use them. Cutting pretty much
anything removes the film and lets surface rust form again. While it does
not seem to last as long, silicon grease, the kind we all used to use for
o-rings, etc. before we started breathing high 02 content gas, will do the
job in a pinch. I keep my old silicon grease in my save a dive kit for just
that purpose.

Marvel Mystery Oil, by the way, does the same thing for guns you don't plan
on using for an extended period.

Lee

Lee Bell wrote:
>
> Tazz wrote
>
> > Will it damage my dive knives to soak them in sodium hydrosulfite (iron
> > out) and water to remove rust?
>
> I doubt it, but I don't know for sure. Personally, I'd look for a product
> specifically designed to remove rust from metal products. There are several
> available at marine stores. Unfortunately, I don't have the brand name of
> the one I like the best. All I can tell you is that it comes in a plastic
> bottle about 8 inches high and 3 inches in diameter and looks kind of like
> slightly orangish brown peanut butter. I'll try to remember to look when
> I'm next at my boat.
>
> > My good knife only has a tiny spot on it, but my cheap knife has lots of
> > tiny to medium sized spots. I guess you get what you pay for.
>
> Actually, getting what you pay for may not be the issue when it comes to
> rust. Steel knives that don't rust, often don't hold an edge well either.
> Those that do rust often work better. If you like the knife otherwise,
> here's a suggestion for having your cake and eating it too.
>
> CRC, WD40 and Marvel Mystery Oil, all leave a film behind. I'm sure similar
> products do too, but these three are the ones I've used most often. Clean
> and sharpen your knife, wipe it off, and then spray or wipe a coating of
> one of the three products mentioned on all metal parts. Be generous. Don't
> wipe it off, let it dry on the knife. The coating will keep rust from
> forming for an extended period, months if not years. So far, I've not had a
> problem with any of my knives until I use them. Cutting pretty much
> anything removes the film and lets surface rust form again. While it does
> not seem to last as long, silicon grease, the kind we all used to use for
> o-rings, etc. before we started breathing high 02 content gas, will do the
> job in a pinch. I keep my old silicon grease in my save a dive kit for just
> that purpose.
>
> Marvel Mystery Oil, by the way, does the same thing for guns you don't plan
> on using for an extended period.
>
> Lee


Thanks for the reply.

The guy that comes to clean my water system left a container of sodium
hydrosulfite behind. He put some in the salt bed and started the system
backwashing. He said that it cleans out the built up iron and rust.

I soaked the blade in a plastic cup of the mixture for about 20 minutes
and it cleaned all of the ust off. It looks like a new knife except for
a few pockmarks where the rust was bad.

I use WD40 on my guns when I've been out in the rain or salt water to
get the dampness out, but then I use a real gun oil to clean up. The
WD40 film doesn't seem to be 'thick' enough for my liking.


--
</Tazz>

Lee Bell wrote:
>
> Tazz wrote
>
> > Will it damage my dive knives to soak them in sodium hydrosulfite (iron
> > out) and water to remove rust?
>
> I doubt it, but I don't know for sure. Personally, I'd look for a product
> specifically designed to remove rust from metal products. There are several
> available at marine stores. Unfortunately, I don't have the brand name of
> the one I like the best. All I can tell you is that it comes in a plastic
> bottle about 8 inches high and 3 inches in diameter and looks kind of like
> slightly orangish brown peanut butter. I'll try to remember to look when
> I'm next at my boat.
>
> > My good knife only has a tiny spot on it, but my cheap knife has lots of
> > tiny to medium sized spots. I guess you get what you pay for.
>
> Actually, getting what you pay for may not be the issue when it comes to
> rust. Steel knives that don't rust, often don't hold an edge well either.
> Those that do rust often work better. If you like the knife otherwise,
> here's a suggestion for having your cake and eating it too.
>
> CRC, WD40 and Marvel Mystery Oil, all leave a film behind. I'm sure similar
> products do too, but these three are the ones I've used most often. Clean
> and sharpen your knife, wipe it off, and then spray or wipe a coating of
> one of the three products mentioned on all metal parts. Be generous. Don't
> wipe it off, let it dry on the knife. The coating will keep rust from
> forming for an extended period, months if not years. So far, I've not had a
> problem with any of my knives until I use them. Cutting pretty much
> anything removes the film and lets surface rust form again. While it does
> not seem to last as long, silicon grease, the kind we all used to use for
> o-rings, etc. before we started breathing high 02 content gas, will do the
> job in a pinch. I keep my old silicon grease in my save a dive kit for just
> that purpose.
>
> Marvel Mystery Oil, by the way, does the same thing for guns you don't plan
> on using for an extended period.
>
> Lee


Thanks for the reply.

The guy that comes to clean my water system left a container of sodium
hydrosulfite behind. He put some in the salt bed and started the system
backwashing. He said that it cleans out the built up iron and rust.

I soaked the blade in a plastic cup of the mixture for about 20 minutes
and it cleaned all of the ust off. It looks like a new knife except for
a few pockmarks where the rust was bad.

I use WD40 on my guns when I've been out in the rain or salt water to
get the dampness out, but then I use a real gun oil to clean up. The
WD40 film doesn't seem to be 'thick' enough for my liking.


--
</Tazz>

Tazz wrote:


>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> The guy that comes to clean my water system left a container of sodium
> hydrosulfite behind. He put some in the salt bed and started the system
> backwashing. He said that it cleans out the built up iron and rust.
>
> I soaked the blade in a plastic cup of the mixture for about 20 minutes
> and it cleaned all of the ust off. It looks like a new knife except for
> a few pockmarks where the rust was bad.
>
> I use WD40 on my guns when I've been out in the rain or salt water to
> get the dampness out, but then I use a real gun oil to clean up. The
> WD40 film doesn't seem to be 'thick' enough for my liking.

Before I got a titanium knife, I removed the rust spots from my old
McKnett and then coated it with somewhat thin coat of Vaseline.

Tazz wrote:


>
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> The guy that comes to clean my water system left a container of sodium
> hydrosulfite behind. He put some in the salt bed and started the system
> backwashing. He said that it cleans out the built up iron and rust.
>
> I soaked the blade in a plastic cup of the mixture for about 20 minutes
> and it cleaned all of the ust off. It looks like a new knife except for
> a few pockmarks where the rust was bad.
>
> I use WD40 on my guns when I've been out in the rain or salt water to
> get the dampness out, but then I use a real gun oil to clean up. The
> WD40 film doesn't seem to be 'thick' enough for my liking.

Before I got a titanium knife, I removed the rust spots from my old
McKnett and then coated it with somewhat thin coat of Vaseline.

Tazz wrote:
> Will it damage my dive knives to soak them in sodium hydrosulfite (iron
> out) and water to remove rust?
>
> My good knife only has a tiny spot on it, but my cheap knife has lots of
> tiny to medium sized spots. I guess you get what you pay for.

There's really no reason to pay more than $5 for a dive knife. When it
gets rusty just throw it away and get a new one - or two.

Tazz wrote:
> Will it damage my dive knives to soak them in sodium hydrosulfite (iron
> out) and water to remove rust?
>
> My good knife only has a tiny spot on it, but my cheap knife has lots of
> tiny to medium sized spots. I guess you get what you pay for.

There's really no reason to pay more than $5 for a dive knife. When it
gets rusty just throw it away and get a new one - or two.

Tazz wrote

> I use WD40 on my guns when I've been out in the rain or salt water to
> get the dampness out, but then I use a real gun oil to clean up. The
> WD40 film doesn't seem to be 'thick' enough for my liking.

I use real gun oil to clean up too. Marvel Mystery Oil is my choice if my
guns are going to be stored for a while without cleaning, as most of them
are.

Lee

Tazz wrote

> I use WD40 on my guns when I've been out in the rain or salt water to
> get the dampness out, but then I use a real gun oil to clean up. The
> WD40 film doesn't seem to be 'thick' enough for my liking.

I use real gun oil to clean up too. Marvel Mystery Oil is my choice if my
guns are going to be stored for a while without cleaning, as most of them
are.

Lee