Are Old Tanks Worth Hydroing?

In rec.scuba, on Tue 11 Sep 2007 09:49:03p, "pjbphd"
<pjbphdspamsux@cox.net> wrote:

> Should have said "One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for
> any tank manufactured after 1991 and $45 for pre-91 tanks..."

Bend over, grab your ankles -- they're not using any lube either.

As Scott mentioned, take it to your local fire extinguisher supply store
and they can do the hydro. You'll want to check around a bit to ensure
that you're not taking it to a store that will just send it off elsewhere.
Depending upon the manufacturer and alloy of the aluminum tank, you might
want to retire it, but the steel 72 cu-ft tank is most likely still good.
I have steel tanks that are nearly 40 years old and the still pass hydro
and their yearly inspection. Not only that, but they've never even been
tumbled. Treat them nice and don't let any water get into the tanks and
they'll last a LONG time.

In rec.scuba, on Tue 11 Sep 2007 09:49:03p, "pjbphd"
<pjbphdspamsux@cox.net> wrote:

> Should have said "One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for
> any tank manufactured after 1991 and $45 for pre-91 tanks..."

Bend over, grab your ankles -- they're not using any lube either.

As Scott mentioned, take it to your local fire extinguisher supply store
and they can do the hydro. You'll want to check around a bit to ensure
that you're not taking it to a store that will just send it off elsewhere.
Depending upon the manufacturer and alloy of the aluminum tank, you might
want to retire it, but the steel 72 cu-ft tank is most likely still good.
I have steel tanks that are nearly 40 years old and the still pass hydro
and their yearly inspection. Not only that, but they've never even been
tumbled. Treat them nice and don't let any water get into the tanks and
they'll last a LONG time.

In rec.scuba, on Tue 11 Sep 2007 09:49:03p, "pjbphd"
<pjbphdspamsux@cox.net> wrote:

> Should have said "One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for
> any tank manufactured after 1991 and $45 for pre-91 tanks..."

Bend over, grab your ankles -- they're not using any lube either.

As Scott mentioned, take it to your local fire extinguisher supply store
and they can do the hydro. You'll want to check around a bit to ensure
that you're not taking it to a store that will just send it off elsewhere.
Depending upon the manufacturer and alloy of the aluminum tank, you might
want to retire it, but the steel 72 cu-ft tank is most likely still good.
I have steel tanks that are nearly 40 years old and the still pass hydro
and their yearly inspection. Not only that, but they've never even been
tumbled. Treat them nice and don't let any water get into the tanks and
they'll last a LONG time.

"pjbphd" <pjbphdspamsux@cox.net> wrote in message
news:IOHFi.115335$dI1.98752@newsfe08.phx...
>I have a couple old tanks from the 1980s. One is an aluminum 80 and the
>other a steel 72. I've just returned to diving from a long absence and
>stopped in at a couple shops to look at gear. While there I asked about
>hydroing the tanks. One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for any
>tank manufactured after 1991 and $5 for pre-91 tanks.
> Should have said "One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for
> any tank manufactured after 1991 and $45 for pre-91 tanks..."

You need to find out what services you are getting from the dive shop. If
they are including a VIP, sticker, and tank fill as well as the neck test
for the aluminum cylinder the prices of $35 and $45 are very reasonable.

"pjbphd" <pjbphdspamsux@cox.net> wrote in message
news:IOHFi.115335$dI1.98752@newsfe08.phx...
>I have a couple old tanks from the 1980s. One is an aluminum 80 and the
>other a steel 72. I've just returned to diving from a long absence and
>stopped in at a couple shops to look at gear. While there I asked about
>hydroing the tanks. One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for any
>tank manufactured after 1991 and $5 for pre-91 tanks.
> Should have said "One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for
> any tank manufactured after 1991 and $45 for pre-91 tanks..."

You need to find out what services you are getting from the dive shop. If
they are including a VIP, sticker, and tank fill as well as the neck test
for the aluminum cylinder the prices of $35 and $45 are very reasonable.

"pjbphd" <pjbphdspamsux@cox.net> wrote in message
news:IOHFi.115335$dI1.98752@newsfe08.phx...
>I have a couple old tanks from the 1980s. One is an aluminum 80 and the
>other a steel 72. I've just returned to diving from a long absence and
>stopped in at a couple shops to look at gear. While there I asked about
>hydroing the tanks. One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for any
>tank manufactured after 1991 and $5 for pre-91 tanks.
> Should have said "One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for
> any tank manufactured after 1991 and $45 for pre-91 tanks..."

You need to find out what services you are getting from the dive shop. If
they are including a VIP, sticker, and tank fill as well as the neck test
for the aluminum cylinder the prices of $35 and $45 are very reasonable.

"pjbphd" <pjbphdspamsux@cox.net> wrote in message
news:IOHFi.115335$dI1.98752@newsfe08.phx...
>I have a couple old tanks from the 1980s. One is an aluminum 80 and the
>other a steel 72. I've just returned to diving from a long absence and
>stopped in at a couple shops to look at gear. While there I asked about
>hydroing the tanks. One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for any
>tank manufactured after 1991 and $5 for pre-91 tanks.
> Should have said "One told me $25 each and the other told me $35 for
> any tank manufactured after 1991 and $45 for pre-91 tanks..."

You need to find out what services you are getting from the dive shop. If
they are including a VIP, sticker, and tank fill as well as the neck test
for the aluminum cylinder the prices of $35 and $45 are very reasonable.

I'll add to what others have said with a slightly different twist:

- If the aluminum tank is anything other than a Catalina, drill a hole in it
and recycle the aluminum. Prior to 1988, a number of aluminum tanks,
including Luxfer and Kidde, were made of an inferior alloy. Several have
failed explosively in the last few years. Catalina never used that alloy. If
the tanks are Catalinas, they're probably about as good today as they were
back then.

- Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
inside, have it hydro tested.

Lee

I'll add to what others have said with a slightly different twist:

- If the aluminum tank is anything other than a Catalina, drill a hole in it
and recycle the aluminum. Prior to 1988, a number of aluminum tanks,
including Luxfer and Kidde, were made of an inferior alloy. Several have
failed explosively in the last few years. Catalina never used that alloy. If
the tanks are Catalinas, they're probably about as good today as they were
back then.

- Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
inside, have it hydro tested.

Lee

I'll add to what others have said with a slightly different twist:

- If the aluminum tank is anything other than a Catalina, drill a hole in it
and recycle the aluminum. Prior to 1988, a number of aluminum tanks,
including Luxfer and Kidde, were made of an inferior alloy. Several have
failed explosively in the last few years. Catalina never used that alloy. If
the tanks are Catalinas, they're probably about as good today as they were
back then.

- Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
inside, have it hydro tested.

Lee