Are Old Tanks Worth Hydroing?

I'll add to what others have said with a slightly different twist:

- If the aluminum tank is anything other than a Catalina, drill a hole in it
and recycle the aluminum. Prior to 1988, a number of aluminum tanks,
including Luxfer and Kidde, were made of an inferior alloy. Several have
failed explosively in the last few years. Catalina never used that alloy. If
the tanks are Catalinas, they're probably about as good today as they were
back then.

- Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
inside, have it hydro tested.

Lee

Lee Bell wrote:
> I'll add to what others have said with a slightly different twist:
>
> - If the aluminum tank is anything other than a Catalina, drill a hole in it
> and recycle the aluminum. Prior to 1988, a number of aluminum tanks,
> including Luxfer and Kidde, were made of an inferior alloy. Several have
> failed explosively in the last few years. Catalina never used that alloy. If
> the tanks are Catalinas, they're probably about as good today as they were
> back then.
>
> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
> inside, have it hydro tested.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
All true, but check the outside, too, especially under the lip of the
boot and under the paint if the Al 80 is painted. For some reason,
divers who will take their regs, BCs, and booties in for annual service
won't bother to maintain their tanks. Maybe because it doesn't cost
anything to do so.

If they've been properly maintained, they should be good for about
10,000 cycles.

esg

Lee Bell wrote:
> I'll add to what others have said with a slightly different twist:
>
> - If the aluminum tank is anything other than a Catalina, drill a hole in it
> and recycle the aluminum. Prior to 1988, a number of aluminum tanks,
> including Luxfer and Kidde, were made of an inferior alloy. Several have
> failed explosively in the last few years. Catalina never used that alloy. If
> the tanks are Catalinas, they're probably about as good today as they were
> back then.
>
> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
> inside, have it hydro tested.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
All true, but check the outside, too, especially under the lip of the
boot and under the paint if the Al 80 is painted. For some reason,
divers who will take their regs, BCs, and booties in for annual service
won't bother to maintain their tanks. Maybe because it doesn't cost
anything to do so.

If they've been properly maintained, they should be good for about
10,000 cycles.

esg

Lee Bell wrote:
> I'll add to what others have said with a slightly different twist:
>
> - If the aluminum tank is anything other than a Catalina, drill a hole in it
> and recycle the aluminum. Prior to 1988, a number of aluminum tanks,
> including Luxfer and Kidde, were made of an inferior alloy. Several have
> failed explosively in the last few years. Catalina never used that alloy. If
> the tanks are Catalinas, they're probably about as good today as they were
> back then.
>
> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
> inside, have it hydro tested.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
All true, but check the outside, too, especially under the lip of the
boot and under the paint if the Al 80 is painted. For some reason,
divers who will take their regs, BCs, and booties in for annual service
won't bother to maintain their tanks. Maybe because it doesn't cost
anything to do so.

If they've been properly maintained, they should be good for about
10,000 cycles.

esg

Lee Bell wrote:
> I'll add to what others have said with a slightly different twist:
>
> - If the aluminum tank is anything other than a Catalina, drill a hole in it
> and recycle the aluminum. Prior to 1988, a number of aluminum tanks,
> including Luxfer and Kidde, were made of an inferior alloy. Several have
> failed explosively in the last few years. Catalina never used that alloy. If
> the tanks are Catalinas, they're probably about as good today as they were
> back then.
>
> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
> inside, have it hydro tested.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
All true, but check the outside, too, especially under the lip of the
boot and under the paint if the Al 80 is painted. For some reason,
divers who will take their regs, BCs, and booties in for annual service
won't bother to maintain their tanks. Maybe because it doesn't cost
anything to do so.

If they've been properly maintained, they should be good for about
10,000 cycles.

esg

On Sep 12, 3:47 am, "Lee Bell" <pleeb...@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
> inside, have it hydro tested.

What's wrong with getting it tumbled to remove the rust?

On Sep 12, 3:47 am, "Lee Bell" <pleeb...@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
> inside, have it hydro tested.

What's wrong with getting it tumbled to remove the rust?

On Sep 12, 3:47 am, "Lee Bell" <pleeb...@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
> inside, have it hydro tested.

What's wrong with getting it tumbled to remove the rust?

On Sep 12, 3:47 am, "Lee Bell" <pleeb...@bellsouth.net> wrote:

> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
> inside, have it hydro tested.

What's wrong with getting it tumbled to remove the rust?

Greg Mossman wrote:
> On Sep 12, 3:47 am, "Lee Bell" <pleeb...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>> - Steel tanks tend to last longer, but are vulnerable to rust. Take the
>> valve off and shine a small flashlight into the tank. If you see scales of
>> rust, pits or any similar indications that the inside of the tank is
>> damaged, drill a hole in the tank and start over. There's no point in paying
>> good money to test a tank you already know won't pass. If it's smooth
>> inside, have it hydro tested.
>
> What's wrong with getting it tumbled to remove the rust?
>
Everytime you do it reduces the wall thickness and reduces strength?