Look Ma, No Flash

Zen Diver <spicedhamme@yahoo.com> pounded away at his keyboard
resulting in:

: I had a go using it on a couple of your shots and in my eyes it
:gives them another boost to what I imagine the scene looked like when
:you pushed the shutter.

What an interesting choice of words. It didn't happen so much on this
trip, but one of my (and even more so my wife's observations) is that
I enhance the photos to the extent that they look fake. This is more
so with prints than with looking at the pictures on a computer.

Dan Bracuk
If we don't succeed, we run the risk of failure.

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Zen Diver <spicedhamme@yahoo.com> pounded away at his keyboard
resulting in:

: I had a go using it on a couple of your shots and in my eyes it
:gives them another boost to what I imagine the scene looked like when
:you pushed the shutter.

What an interesting choice of words. It didn't happen so much on this
trip, but one of my (and even more so my wife's observations) is that
I enhance the photos to the extent that they look fake. This is more
so with prints than with looking at the pictures on a computer.

Dan Bracuk
If we don't succeed, we run the risk of failure.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Zen Diver <spicedhamme@yahoo.com> pounded away at his keyboard
resulting in:

: I had a go using it on a couple of your shots and in my eyes it
:gives them another boost to what I imagine the scene looked like when
:you pushed the shutter.

What an interesting choice of words. It didn't happen so much on this
trip, but one of my (and even more so my wife's observations) is that
I enhance the photos to the extent that they look fake. This is more
so with prints than with looking at the pictures on a computer.

Dan Bracuk
If we don't succeed, we run the risk of failure.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Dave C wrote:
> Dan Bracuk wrote:
> > "Dave C" <dcalderbank@top.monad.net> pounded away at his keyboard
> > resulting in:
> > :Otherwise, how about setting your shutter fast enough to freeze motion
> > :and correcting underexposure later? That's just a thought, as I haven't
> > :done much lightening of images and don't know how much would be lost.
> >
> > That's what I had in mind all the time. Has anyone done this before?
> > What shutter speed did you use? Did you also keep a constant f-stop
> > or did you keep that on automatic? How were the results.

I'm still shooting film UW, but for Cayman, my general rule of thumb
manual setting is 1/60sec at f/8 for ISO 100. This is generally good
for a sunny day, down to around 40-50fsw. Deeper than that, it depends
on conditions, but is time to pick up a stop by 80fsw, usually by going
to f/5.6, and at 100+fsw, I'll go to 1/30sec to pick up a second stop.

On digital P&S's, I've found that boosting the ISO is generally the
easiest way to keep the shutter speed short. On one dP&S we have, the
Manual camera mode automatically knocks the ISO all the way down to ISO
50, so overriding it to set it to ISO 400 does compromise noise some,
but it picks up 3 stops, and is usually worth it for night photography

An Example:
http://www.huntzinger.com/photo/2006...om_night1a.jpg


> The minimum shutter speed required to adequately reduce blur will vary,
> of course, but I would try 1/60 or faster.

1/60 is a good starting point, particularly for normal or wide angle
lenses. With an extremely wide 15mm lens on film, I find that I can
'get away' with slowing down to 1/30 sec, as this is still faster than
the "1/(length)" sec rule of thumb and I have reasonable technique for
not jerking the shutter release. It does, of course, depend on if the
subject's moving or not. With a dP&S, the trick might be to figure out
what the 35mm equivalent focal length is, since your CCD/CMOS sensor
chip will definitely be smaller than (24x36mm) film, so you can't just
read the number on the lens. My guess is that you're probably a 35mm
lens equivalent, which is borderline for dropping down to 1/30sec.


-hh

Dave C wrote:
> Dan Bracuk wrote:
> > "Dave C" <dcalderbank@top.monad.net> pounded away at his keyboard
> > resulting in:
> > :Otherwise, how about setting your shutter fast enough to freeze motion
> > :and correcting underexposure later? That's just a thought, as I haven't
> > :done much lightening of images and don't know how much would be lost.
> >
> > That's what I had in mind all the time. Has anyone done this before?
> > What shutter speed did you use? Did you also keep a constant f-stop
> > or did you keep that on automatic? How were the results.

I'm still shooting film UW, but for Cayman, my general rule of thumb
manual setting is 1/60sec at f/8 for ISO 100. This is generally good
for a sunny day, down to around 40-50fsw. Deeper than that, it depends
on conditions, but is time to pick up a stop by 80fsw, usually by going
to f/5.6, and at 100+fsw, I'll go to 1/30sec to pick up a second stop.

On digital P&S's, I've found that boosting the ISO is generally the
easiest way to keep the shutter speed short. On one dP&S we have, the
Manual camera mode automatically knocks the ISO all the way down to ISO
50, so overriding it to set it to ISO 400 does compromise noise some,
but it picks up 3 stops, and is usually worth it for night photography

An Example:
http://www.huntzinger.com/photo/2006...om_night1a.jpg


> The minimum shutter speed required to adequately reduce blur will vary,
> of course, but I would try 1/60 or faster.

1/60 is a good starting point, particularly for normal or wide angle
lenses. With an extremely wide 15mm lens on film, I find that I can
'get away' with slowing down to 1/30 sec, as this is still faster than
the "1/(length)" sec rule of thumb and I have reasonable technique for
not jerking the shutter release. It does, of course, depend on if the
subject's moving or not. With a dP&S, the trick might be to figure out
what the 35mm equivalent focal length is, since your CCD/CMOS sensor
chip will definitely be smaller than (24x36mm) film, so you can't just
read the number on the lens. My guess is that you're probably a 35mm
lens equivalent, which is borderline for dropping down to 1/30sec.


-hh

Dave C wrote:
> Dan Bracuk wrote:
> > "Dave C" <dcalderbank@top.monad.net> pounded away at his keyboard
> > resulting in:
> > :Otherwise, how about setting your shutter fast enough to freeze motion
> > :and correcting underexposure later? That's just a thought, as I haven't
> > :done much lightening of images and don't know how much would be lost.
> >
> > That's what I had in mind all the time. Has anyone done this before?
> > What shutter speed did you use? Did you also keep a constant f-stop
> > or did you keep that on automatic? How were the results.

I'm still shooting film UW, but for Cayman, my general rule of thumb
manual setting is 1/60sec at f/8 for ISO 100. This is generally good
for a sunny day, down to around 40-50fsw. Deeper than that, it depends
on conditions, but is time to pick up a stop by 80fsw, usually by going
to f/5.6, and at 100+fsw, I'll go to 1/30sec to pick up a second stop.

On digital P&S's, I've found that boosting the ISO is generally the
easiest way to keep the shutter speed short. On one dP&S we have, the
Manual camera mode automatically knocks the ISO all the way down to ISO
50, so overriding it to set it to ISO 400 does compromise noise some,
but it picks up 3 stops, and is usually worth it for night photography

An Example:
http://www.huntzinger.com/photo/2006...om_night1a.jpg


> The minimum shutter speed required to adequately reduce blur will vary,
> of course, but I would try 1/60 or faster.

1/60 is a good starting point, particularly for normal or wide angle
lenses. With an extremely wide 15mm lens on film, I find that I can
'get away' with slowing down to 1/30 sec, as this is still faster than
the "1/(length)" sec rule of thumb and I have reasonable technique for
not jerking the shutter release. It does, of course, depend on if the
subject's moving or not. With a dP&S, the trick might be to figure out
what the 35mm equivalent focal length is, since your CCD/CMOS sensor
chip will definitely be smaller than (24x36mm) film, so you can't just
read the number on the lens. My guess is that you're probably a 35mm
lens equivalent, which is borderline for dropping down to 1/30sec.


-hh