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#1
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| Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and no backscatter. The bad news is that I left the camera on fully automatic, except for the no flash part. That meant that in pretty well 100% of the low light situations, the shutter speed, or whatever you call that with digital cameras was too slow and my pictures were blurry. Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 megapixel Sony point and shoot. Dan Bracuk If we don't succeed, we run the risk of failure. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
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#2
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. > > The bad news is that I left the camera on fully automatic, except for > the no flash part. That meant that in pretty well 100% of the low > light situations, the shutter speed, or whatever you call that with > digital cameras was too slow and my pictures were blurry. > > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. Are you looking for suggestions as to what to set the f-stop to? Using the manual settings, try taking some low light photos above ground of the same object with different settings, until you get a feel for what the difference is for the range available with your camera. The smaller the f-stop number, the wider the opening and the more light the aperture lets in. A given f-stop lets in twice as much light as the next higher f-stop. With my digital (also a sony), you only have to adjust one and the other adjusts automatically, that is, adjust the f-stop setting and shutter speed will change accordingly. Does that help? kari > > Dan Bracuk |
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#3
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. > > The bad news is that I left the camera on fully automatic, except for > the no flash part. That meant that in pretty well 100% of the low > light situations, the shutter speed, or whatever you call that with > digital cameras was too slow and my pictures were blurry. > > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. Are you looking for suggestions as to what to set the f-stop to? Using the manual settings, try taking some low light photos above ground of the same object with different settings, until you get a feel for what the difference is for the range available with your camera. The smaller the f-stop number, the wider the opening and the more light the aperture lets in. A given f-stop lets in twice as much light as the next higher f-stop. With my digital (also a sony), you only have to adjust one and the other adjusts automatically, that is, adjust the f-stop setting and shutter speed will change accordingly. Does that help? kari > > Dan Bracuk |
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#4
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. > > The bad news is that I left the camera on fully automatic, except for > the no flash part. That meant that in pretty well 100% of the low > light situations, the shutter speed, or whatever you call that with > digital cameras was too slow and my pictures were blurry. > > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. Are you looking for suggestions as to what to set the f-stop to? Using the manual settings, try taking some low light photos above ground of the same object with different settings, until you get a feel for what the difference is for the range available with your camera. The smaller the f-stop number, the wider the opening and the more light the aperture lets in. A given f-stop lets in twice as much light as the next higher f-stop. With my digital (also a sony), you only have to adjust one and the other adjusts automatically, that is, adjust the f-stop setting and shutter speed will change accordingly. Does that help? kari > > Dan Bracuk |
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#5
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. > > The bad news is that I left the camera on fully automatic, except for > the no flash part. That meant that in pretty well 100% of the low > light situations, the shutter speed, or whatever you call that with > digital cameras was too slow and my pictures were blurry. I'll bet fully automatic was the right choice anyway, since your camera is probably programmed with a bias toward faster shutter speeds. I think these consumer cameras are programmed wth a bias to reduce blur caused by motion of the camera or subject. I have the same problems in low light with my Olympus 4040z. In mid-depths of 30 to 60 fsw, my camera is often at widest aperture and it chooses slow shutter speeds of 1/20th to 1/2 second. I'm getting a few decent shots in those low light conditions by steadying the camera as much as possible, as I'm sure you are. I can sometimes get an acceptably clear shot even with shutter speeds as long as 1/6 of a second if I get a little further away, stop breathing, get slack in the flag line and place my fin tips or knees on the bottom. > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. I agree with Kari about experimenting a little with your cameras settings for manual or shutter control. Also, to find out what your camera's automatic mode is doing, try to find some low light settings that cause your camera, in automatic mode, to just barely drop into the widest aperture. Note the shutter speed and then switch to manual or shutter priority and compare different settings. That might tell you if there is an advantage to controlling the shutter speed yourself. Eventually, my solution will be to get a camera with better low-light performance. If you find a cheaper solution, let me know. 8^) HTH. Dave C |
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#6
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. > > The bad news is that I left the camera on fully automatic, except for > the no flash part. That meant that in pretty well 100% of the low > light situations, the shutter speed, or whatever you call that with > digital cameras was too slow and my pictures were blurry. I'll bet fully automatic was the right choice anyway, since your camera is probably programmed with a bias toward faster shutter speeds. I think these consumer cameras are programmed wth a bias to reduce blur caused by motion of the camera or subject. I have the same problems in low light with my Olympus 4040z. In mid-depths of 30 to 60 fsw, my camera is often at widest aperture and it chooses slow shutter speeds of 1/20th to 1/2 second. I'm getting a few decent shots in those low light conditions by steadying the camera as much as possible, as I'm sure you are. I can sometimes get an acceptably clear shot even with shutter speeds as long as 1/6 of a second if I get a little further away, stop breathing, get slack in the flag line and place my fin tips or knees on the bottom. > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. I agree with Kari about experimenting a little with your cameras settings for manual or shutter control. Also, to find out what your camera's automatic mode is doing, try to find some low light settings that cause your camera, in automatic mode, to just barely drop into the widest aperture. Note the shutter speed and then switch to manual or shutter priority and compare different settings. That might tell you if there is an advantage to controlling the shutter speed yourself. Eventually, my solution will be to get a camera with better low-light performance. If you find a cheaper solution, let me know. 8^) HTH. Dave C |
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#7
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. > > The bad news is that I left the camera on fully automatic, except for > the no flash part. That meant that in pretty well 100% of the low > light situations, the shutter speed, or whatever you call that with > digital cameras was too slow and my pictures were blurry. I'll bet fully automatic was the right choice anyway, since your camera is probably programmed with a bias toward faster shutter speeds. I think these consumer cameras are programmed wth a bias to reduce blur caused by motion of the camera or subject. I have the same problems in low light with my Olympus 4040z. In mid-depths of 30 to 60 fsw, my camera is often at widest aperture and it chooses slow shutter speeds of 1/20th to 1/2 second. I'm getting a few decent shots in those low light conditions by steadying the camera as much as possible, as I'm sure you are. I can sometimes get an acceptably clear shot even with shutter speeds as long as 1/6 of a second if I get a little further away, stop breathing, get slack in the flag line and place my fin tips or knees on the bottom. > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. I agree with Kari about experimenting a little with your cameras settings for manual or shutter control. Also, to find out what your camera's automatic mode is doing, try to find some low light settings that cause your camera, in automatic mode, to just barely drop into the widest aperture. Note the shutter speed and then switch to manual or shutter priority and compare different settings. That might tell you if there is an advantage to controlling the shutter speed yourself. Eventually, my solution will be to get a camera with better low-light performance. If you find a cheaper solution, let me know. 8^) HTH. Dave C |
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#8
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. Natural light for me always produces the best looking photos. I like the 'Nemo' atmosphere you get with natural light. > > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. With my experience of Sony P&S cameras, P100 mainly, I find that the best results come when you set the exposure compensation at -1.0eV. The Sony's, and most others, tend to over-expose with underwater scenes. The Sony's are probably the least tweakable with very few aperture settings that are user selectable and limited white balance control. The best way to get the most out of shooting available light is to use a filter to balance out the colour spectrum a bit. Have a look at http://www.magic-filters.com/ to see what can be done without a strobe. jon |
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#9
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. Natural light for me always produces the best looking photos. I like the 'Nemo' atmosphere you get with natural light. > > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. With my experience of Sony P&S cameras, P100 mainly, I find that the best results come when you set the exposure compensation at -1.0eV. The Sony's, and most others, tend to over-expose with underwater scenes. The Sony's are probably the least tweakable with very few aperture settings that are user selectable and limited white balance control. The best way to get the most out of shooting available light is to use a filter to balance out the colour spectrum a bit. Have a look at http://www.magic-filters.com/ to see what can be done without a strobe. jon |
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#10
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| Dan Bracuk wrote: > Last week I tried something new - new for me that is. I took all my > photos with natural light only. The good news is that the good ones > were much better than they would have been with flash. No shadows and > no backscatter. Natural light for me always produces the best looking photos. I like the 'Nemo' atmosphere you get with natural light. > > Next trip, manual f-stop and shutter speed settings. Anybody got any > suggestions for something that might work? The camera is a 4 > megapixel Sony point and shoot. With my experience of Sony P&S cameras, P100 mainly, I find that the best results come when you set the exposure compensation at -1.0eV. The Sony's, and most others, tend to over-expose with underwater scenes. The Sony's are probably the least tweakable with very few aperture settings that are user selectable and limited white balance control. The best way to get the most out of shooting available light is to use a filter to balance out the colour spectrum a bit. Have a look at http://www.magic-filters.com/ to see what can be done without a strobe. jon |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Flash Sea & Sea YS-50 TTL/S | Claude | (French) | 0 | 04-12-2007 01:55 PM |
| Flash AFP | Christophe Lohr | (French) | 2 | 04-12-2007 12:41 AM |
| Re: Look Ma, No Flash | Kari | Gear | 0 | 03-27-2007 02:47 AM |
| Re: Look Ma, No Flash | Dave C | Gear | 0 | 03-27-2007 02:47 AM |
| Re: Look Ma, No Flash | Zen Diver | Gear | 0 | 03-27-2007 02:47 AM |