Aerdura integrated ankle weights

Keith S. <false@ntlworld.com> wrote:

> You can melt lead in an iron pan (don't use aluminium - it'll melt too!)

I used to melt lead in an aluminium pan and there is no problem with it
melting

aluminium Melting Point: 660.32
melting point of Lead is 327.502 º C,

So you have to be really careless to melt the pan

--
>replace spamblock with my family name to e-mail me

"Richard" <qaz1521@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<c88lqu$ap1$1$8300dec7@news.demon.co.uk>...
> Does anybody have an opinion on the integrated ankle weights on the Oceanic
> Aerdura drysuit? Seems to me that they won't slide up and down like
> ordinary ankle weights which is an advantage but they can't be removed
> easily either which might be a disadvantage.
>
> Also, what is the best source of the lozenge type weights that fit in to the
> velcro band round the leg? The band seems to be divided into compartments
> about the length and width of a stick of chewing gum.
>
> Thanks for any information,
>
> Richard


Simple to make no casting required Just cut a bit of Sheet
lead into Strips with snips 3/4" wide ish and double the length
of the pocket ( ie stick of chewing gum size but a bit longer)
Snip the corners off
fold in half
Insert in pockets
take 2 hrs to work out how to fold the pocket strip back down :)

another fav in our club as the scuba shop is also a Gun shop is
to use 0.38" or 0.44" bullet heads


ATB

Duncan

On Tue, 18 May 2004 00:53:26 +0100, "Richard" <qaz1521@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>I've read about people casting their own weights. Mostly technical divers
>making oddly shaped lumps to attach to back plates but I've never seen it
>done. Am I right in thinking that you can melt lead in a steel container
>and mould it in wet sand? Given my DIY skills, I'd probably end up burning
>my house down though. I heard the fumes are very nasty too so perhaps some
>little bags of lead shot or sawing up some slab weights might be better for
>me.
>
I made a load of weights (12-15?) earlier this year (my builders left
some lead when I sacked them- partly cos I hid it)

1 - I used a frying pan (wife wouldn't let me use any other) - large
surface area v low height made it unweildy
2- Pan handle nearly buckled - lesson choose pan carefully
3- I used metal moulds from my club (Clidive BSAC 410) - all different
- best was one with screws in to take it apart rather than using a
hamemr and brute force
4 - skim off the grot before pouring into mould
5- ensure mould is not on carpet, lino etc (it gets HOT)
6- ensure around the mould has sufficient coverings for splashes
7 - warm mould on a radiator pre use
8 -don't expect weight to be an exact weight (mine were 1.5 to 1.85 kg
each)
9 - I used a saw to cut the lead sheet into chunks - different saws
were better than others.
10 - leave to cool, and keep pets/kids away
11 - you only have a few seconds to pour into the mould so get on with
it
12 - yes it stinks and is presumably dangerous so open all doors and
windows (I don't have the luxury of an outdoor cooker)
13 - edges of the weights (inc the belt holes) may need to be filed
down.
14 - throw pan away
15 - have fun

Time? In the end when I had it worked out, about 30 mins from raw lead
to putting lead into mould then about a two hour wait.

"Rocket" <Don_King@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:lqvja09iulesaprlbd8d5k2krnlse1qbd1@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 18 May 2004 00:53:26 +0100, "Richard" <qaz1521@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >I've read about people casting their own weights. Mostly technical
divers
> >making oddly shaped lumps to attach to back plates but I've never seen it
> >done. Am I right in thinking that you can melt lead in a steel container
> >and mould it in wet sand? Given my DIY skills, I'd probably end up
burning
> >my house down though. I heard the fumes are very nasty too so perhaps
some
> >little bags of lead shot or sawing up some slab weights might be better
for
> >me.
> >
> I made a load of weights (12-15?) earlier this year (my builders left
> some lead when I sacked them- partly cos I hid it)
>
> 1 - I used a frying pan (wife wouldn't let me use any other) - large
> surface area v low height made it unweildy
> 2- Pan handle nearly buckled - lesson choose pan carefully
> 3- I used metal moulds from my club (Clidive BSAC 410) - all different
> - best was one with screws in to take it apart rather than using a
> hamemr and brute force
> 4 - skim off the grot before pouring into mould
> 5- ensure mould is not on carpet, lino etc (it gets HOT)
> 6- ensure around the mould has sufficient coverings for splashes
> 7 - warm mould on a radiator pre use
> 8 -don't expect weight to be an exact weight (mine were 1.5 to 1.85 kg
> each)
> 9 - I used a saw to cut the lead sheet into chunks - different saws
> were better than others.
> 10 - leave to cool, and keep pets/kids away
> 11 - you only have a few seconds to pour into the mould so get on with
> it
> 12 - yes it stinks and is presumably dangerous so open all doors and
> windows (I don't have the luxury of an outdoor cooker)
> 13 - edges of the weights (inc the belt holes) may need to be filed
> down.
> 14 - throw pan away
> 15 - have fun
>
> Time? In the end when I had it worked out, about 30 mins from raw lead
> to putting lead into mould then about a two hour wait.

and dont try this indoors .....................

> 12 - yes it stinks and is presumably dangerous so open all doors and
> windows (I don't have the luxury of an outdoor cooker)

Tesco disposable bbq's not good enough then? :O\

David

A very good point Pete. The bubbles of steam could cause splashes of molten
lead.

I've now got visions of spattering the cat with some integrated weights of
its own and gassing the wife with toxic lead fumes as well as burning down
the house.

I think cutting up some lead sheeting as suggested by Duncan might be my
best bet.

Richard

"Pete Melbourne" <psmvsl@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:llhja0t7oc9ntju1t4q9djc15r6qdlrclc@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 18 May 2004 00:53:26 +0100, "Richard" <qaz1521@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >I've read about people casting their own weights. Mostly technical
divers
> >making oddly shaped lumps to attach to back plates but I've never seen it
> >done. Am I right in thinking that you can melt lead in a steel container
> >and mould it in wet sand? Given my DIY skills, I'd probably end up
burning
> >my house down though. I heard the fumes are very nasty too so perhaps
some
> >little bags of lead shot or sawing up some slab weights might be better
for
> >me.
>
> This is a safety announcement
>
> DO NOT MOLD IN WET SAND
>
> Think what happens to water subject to instantaneous heating up to 400
> C. Apply Charles law to H2O gas. Think about this expansion being
> under molten lead
>
> Use a wooden or metal mold
> --
> Pete
>
> news 'at' melbourne 'dot' me 'dot' uk

On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:41:06 +0100, "David Walker"
<wbsdavenews@hotmail.com> wrote:

>> 12 - yes it stinks and is presumably dangerous so open all doors and
>> windows (I don't have the luxury of an outdoor cooker)
>
>Tesco disposable bbq's not good enough then? :O\
>
>David

Aprt from the lack of heat - They cost money! (I'm from Leeds - saving
up for for new players)

On Tue, 18 May 2004 23:56:42 +0100, "Richard" <qaz1521@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>A very good point Pete. The bubbles of steam could cause splashes of molten
>lead.
>
>I've now got visions of spattering the cat with some integrated weights of
>its own and gassing the wife with toxic lead fumes as well as burning down
>the house.
>
>I think cutting up some lead sheeting as suggested by Duncan might be my
>best bet.
>
>Richard
>

Being slightly sad, and with access to an engineering facility, I made
a mould and cast some custom weights. Don't think I could find the
mould now, but definately have some weights left over. How much weight
do you need?

David

Casting metals in sand is not unusual, it has to be only just damp enough to
keep its form, NOT WET. Fine sand is needed aroung the pattern. Spitting is
still possible.

The safest and easiest option- Lead weights for these suits are available at
places which sell the suits. (or cut up your old ankle weights, the blocks are
identicle)

I like the integrated the weights, I just use 3 on each ankle now. The
difficulty I have with the Aerodura is getting a well insulated foot past the
top of the boot where the weight pouches reduce flexibility. Put on some
toastie warm socks at a shop and try getting in and out a couple of times
before comitting to a purchase.

"Why use ankle weights"- Someone had to say it and it didn't take long!... They
help trim buoyancy and make a dive more comfortable. Personal Choice.

Rob

Rocket <Don_King@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message news:<fb9ma05mm6h459297t28db54c730qamg7k@4ax.com>. ..
> On Tue, 18 May 2004 18:41:06 +0100, "David Walker"
> <wbsdavenews@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >> 12 - yes it stinks and is presumably dangerous so open all doors and
> >> windows (I don't have the luxury of an outdoor cooker)
> >
> >Tesco disposable bbq's not good enough then? :O\
> >
> >David
>
> Aprt from the lack of heat - They cost money! (I'm from Leeds - saving
> up for for new players)

I've made quite a few. I use a sand box for the mould. Push a wooden
former (or even another weight) in to make an impression, remove then
pour the lead. The advantage with this is that you can remove the
weight after a minute or so and then mould another one. Means you can
make a load fairly quickly.

Surface finish on mine isn't great but I used regular sand rather than
posh casting sand. They sink just fine, though,

Nick